Why Herbs in Cosmetics?

The appropriateness of the use of herbs in cosmetics is well reinforced by the following facts:

  • Plants possess a vast and complex arsenal of phytochemicals able not only to calm or smooth the skin but actively restore, heal and protect it.
  • Herbal extracts have antioxidant property mostly attributed to the presence of carotenoids, flavonoids and polyphenols.
  • Flavonoids impart ultraviolet (UV) protection and metal-chelating properties in addition to antioxidant property.
  • Herbal constituents such as allantoin exhibit topical anti-inflammatory property due to which they block the anti-inflammatory changes associated with cutaneous ageing, thus helping reverse signs of skin ageing.
  • Herbs with topical anaesthetic and anti-pruritic property such as capsaicin in capsicum and menthol in mint are used against dermatitis, sunburn and acne.
  • Some herbal constituents are associated with anti-cellulite property such as xanthine alkaloids, caffeine and theophylline from tea. Via beta adrenergic stimulatory action they are known to stimulate the breakdown of fat.
  • Hair loss is prevented by the normalization of the keratinization of cells by plant-derived constituents like azelaic acid found naturally in wheat, rye, barley due to their effect on the hornification process of the epidermal cells.
  • Herbal materials are much preferred for use as excipients such as carrier oils, cosmetic bases for their emollient, moisturizing, skin toning, bleaching properties.
  • Tannin-rich plant extracts due to their astringent or skin-constricting effect may be used in skin conditions associated with infection and inflammation.
  • Herbs in cosmetics work slowly but effectively over a period of weeks or even months.
  • Herbal cosmetics are viewed as having better physiological activity such as healing, enhancing and conditioning properties.
  • They influence biological functions of the skin and provide nutrients such as antioxidants, vitamins, various oils, hydrocolloids, proteins and terpenoids necessary for healthy skin or hair.
  • Herbs are well known for their action in controlling scabies, itching, acne, dermatitis, ringworm, skin eruptions, allergic rashes, warts and other skin complaints.
  • Since the 1990s cosmetic manufacturers have adopted the term ‘cosmeceuticals’ to refer to over-the-counter (OTC) products containing plant-based active ingredients such as ascorbic acid, retinoic acid, alpha hydroxyl acid, co-enzyme Q, other nutraceuticals and pharmaceuticals claiming to have both therapeutic and cosmetic benefit.
  • These active ingredients are associated with increased skin elasticity, delayed skin ageing, reduced wrinkles, protection against UV radiation and inhibition of degradation of skin collagen.
  • Essential oils when incorporated into cosmetics impart a pleasant aroma, shine or conditioning effect in hair care products, emolliency and improved elasticity of the skin.

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