Arbutin (hydroquinone-beta-D-glucoside) which can inhibit melanin production is present in Mitracarpus scaber extract, Uva ursi (bearberry) extract, Morus bombycis (mulberry), Morus alba (white mulberry) and Broussonetia papyrifera (paper mulberry). Pure forms of arbutin are considered more potent for effecting skin lightening (alpha-arbutin, beta-arbutin, and deoxy-arbutin). Beta-arbutin is also known by its more common name of bearberry extract.
Sourced from the leaves of bearberry, cranberry, mulberry and some types of pears, arbutin and its source plant extracts are considered safe and natural alternatives to pure chemical skin depigmentation agents. The skin-lightening property of arbutin is reported in medical literature with such usage being controlled by patents. Out of the two structural conformations of arbutin, the α-form is relatively more stable and thus preferred as a skin lightener.
Kojic acid
A fermentative by-product of malting rice in the manufacture of Japanese rice-based wine, kojic acid is reported in some studies to be a melanin inhibitor. Due to its susceptibility to colour change and loss of activity on exposure to air or sunlight, the more stable kojic acid diplamitate, also an effective antioxidant, is used in cosmetic formulations.
Azelaic acid
An ingredient of grains such as wheat, rye and barley, azelaic acid is being used topically in 10% to 20% concentration. It is considered an effective treatment for acne and skin discolouration.
Vitamin C
Vitamin C and its various forms such as ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate etc. are considered effective antioxidants for the skin and help to lighten it. One study found it to raise glutathione levels in the body. Another study found that brownish guinea pigs given vitamin C, vitamin E and L-cysteine simultaneously lead to them having lighter skin. Several natural sources of vitamin C such as amla used in cosmetics also serve the purpose of skin whitening.
Toxicity-free skin-lightening products are both expensive and in great demand. Japan and Pacific countries are fertile markets for good-quality skin-lightening products from Europe.
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